We
spend a couple of days in Austria and after thinking about cycling round the
whole country, we end up changing your mind. We
are attracted by its mountains, its villages and its history, but we do not
feel comfortable with the people. It's
been very little time to generalize, but the faces we see in the squares,
streets and roads are of sad people, and rarely do they greet us. At one point we crossed the Rhine on a
Sunday looking for an open supermarket in Switzerland and we did not go back
into Austria, dazzled again with the Swiss unexpected sympathy.
We
head to Altenrhein to take a look at the tent that Monique found us online. On the way, we stop at the Rheineck
train station, very close to our destination, to visit the bathroom. Christobal a master sculptor, has also
come to the station today to say goodbye to his daughter. When he returns to his car, he is
surprised to see a couple of cyclists loaded down with packages and a huge
cardboard sign which says they are travelling round the world by bicycle and
began in Spain. Christobal is
happy, takes the opportunity to practice his good Spanish but want to know more
about these travelers. He has
also seen the weather forecast tonight and there is a high probability of hail,
and just today the place that a man from Madrid rents at his house is filled.
He does not miss the opportunity, his wife, Barbara gives consent by phone to
accommodate these two cyclist travellers so they won´t have to sleep tonight
under the storm.
Happy
with Christobal´s invitation, we go to see the tent. We want to compare it with ours, and
just at the time that we are setting it up, another pole of our beloved Vaude
facilitates the choice by breaking in the same place as the other one. The "bribe" with ice cream
and cold beer is not necessary to close the sale, but deeply appreciated. And so we undo kilometres to find Christobal´s house who has drawn us a map
and their phone number in case. What
scares us is that he said the forbidden phrase "no loss" it is a
house exactly 1.7 km from the station, unmistakable for its stone sculptures. We started up the hill, confident that
the same thing will never happen again
(and in any case, we have two tents for the night). The problem is when we start to go
down the hill ... and we fear the worst. We
turn around and look for the house desperately, and more out of pride than
anything else, and two hours later Barbara welcomes us with open arms, and
worried that we were not going to appear. With
GPS life would be simpler, but we would have missed the view of Lake Constance
from the top of the hill.
That
night we redefine the route. We forget
about Austria and decide to cycle the Bodensee-Königsee Radweg (this last word,
as you may have guessed from its resemblance to
Spanish, means cycle route, and
Bodensee, as you can also know intuitively, is Lake Constance). When Pope John Paul II came to a
country, when he got off the plane he bent down to kiss the ground. In a pathetic emulation, as soon as we
cross the invisible border between Austria and Germany, I do the same. Gabriel would describe it in Facebook
as follows: "A wrong turn, a drop in the rain, a rear wheel that is
spinning and Ainhoa resting peacefully on the ground and Gabriel from the top
of the hill screaming that it isn´t that way, ..... "
With
a skinned arm and knee (but goretex raincoat intact, thank God), and an unequal
pain spread all over my left side, I have to go all over Bavaria. Luckily nothing is broken, but the
bone pain is persistent and the burns are going to take more than a week to start to
heal. To this we must add that
the sky does not give us a truce, and showers that slip between the German
trees are excessively generous. Neither
the best materials in the world would have prevented us from getting soaked and
with that nice whiff of cheese which adheres to the wet plastic. The day of the fall we have to stop
soon, more because of the torrential rain than the pain, leaving us the next
day an overview of 65 km of Berg and Regen (rain and mountain in German) to
reach Wertach, our next destination. We
do what we can, and Gabriel has to ride my bike up the most demanding slopes,
those that my dislocated shoulder means cannot do. It´s a blessing when we get
to Martina and Edi´s house; we can dry everything and Martina tells us to stay
an extra day to let my bruises and wounds recover. Edi gives me a magic balm that his
mother makes from propolis from the bees that leaves me no excuses for the
following days.
Maybe
too optimistic, we prepared a route for the next three days a route through the
German Alps before taking the road north
to Munich, which is almost 200 km. away. But
just an hour of pedaling is enough to make us give up, it´s not worth continuing
in these conditions, so we opt for the easy and fast way and take a train to
Munich. But to get to Uta and
Abel´s house, where a week of relaxation awaits us, will be another adventure
in itself.
Martina
had told us that the train was not expensive, but you have to pay a small
surcharge. However, in this
globalized and dehumanized world where the Luddites began a task that they
should have finished, the machines have been stripped humans of their jobs. That
is, in the vending machine the "Fahrrad" (bicycle) option doesn´t appear. So we get the tickets knowing that we
are going to have problems. Although
this is not the biggest problem we will have. To
make the transfer in Kempten we only have 5 minutes to change platforms, and each
bike weighs more than 40 kilos. When
we reach the station we find that there are only stairs (what about citizens in
a wheelchair?), and considering that I cannot drag my bike because of my
dislocated arm, we make the decision to cross the tracks at a low pass at the
end of the station. When we are
about to board our train, a security guard stops us with an uppity disproportionate
cry: "Do you know what you have just done? Gabriel says yes, cross the tracks
because there are no more options for bicycles. The guard responds impassively:
"stairs". He adds ...
"passports." We cannot
believe it, the train leaves in a couple of minutes and the “little” soldier
has called the police. A patrol car arrives and a policeman gets out. He does
not understand very well the disproportionate distress call from the security
guard, and pretends to write down our personal data and helps us lift the bikes
onto the train, already delayed with the delicacy and agility of a lame
elephant. When we think we're
safe, the conductor tells us that we should have paid the surcharge by fahrrad. The big problem is resolved by paying
by credit card, but there's also an irregularity that for the German eye does
not go unnoticed. We had the
audacity to try to pay with a card that is not signed. And with a pen that does not write. He does us the favor of noticing such a big crime
and we can continue our path without any more surprises with authority. On the platform we are awaited by Uta,
our hostess the next few days that will delight us with a delicious gastronomic
holiday. During this time the
wounds heal and we watch the storms placidly from the window. We visit the city, play the fool in the Milka chocolate museum and plan the
next days.
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