Friday, January 30, 2015


     Two months looking forward to you and only two weeks to get bored with you. Dear Croatian coast, Dalmatia dear, you have sold your beauty abroad and have lost authenticity for doing business, you have revitalized your roots by betraying your fruits. It is not your fault, you did what you thought was right, but you are not for me. I'm tired of your turquoise water, your cliffs do not impress me, I have no interest in diving in your coves. Tangerines wither on the branches… Why not let me enjoy your olives? My beloved sea, it’s not you, it's me. I cannot pretend to be a saltwater animal, when I'm a fresh water fish. I am not a mermaid, but rather a salmon.
Adriatic Sea.

Friday, January 02, 2015

The Swans of the Adriatic

Pedaling below zero can be fun. Our hands are still warm inside poguis, covered only with thin wool fingerless gloves. Our feet do what they can with three pairs of socks on, and our thermal pants and winter coat are still waiting to be used in the saddlebags. At night, the solution to our warmth is to put a summer sleeping bag within a spring one. The tent also isolates us from the outside. Under our fabric covered roof the temperature is always above zero. Sometimes in the middle of the night we have to take off layers of clothing. So far so good, but there is a name that is always repeated in the mouths of those that we meet along the way; when a wind has a name (like our old friends, the Boreas and the Mistral) it is worthy of being taken into consideration, but in the case of the Bura, it should also have surnames. A native of Russia, it extends its icy breath throughout Europe, covering the continent with a white blanket. When you reach the Croatian coast, the cold air mass collides with the Velebit, and runs downhill and when it is exceeded, it rides the coast with fury. Frane told us that a few years ago the Bura, with hurricane force, came with gusts of over 200 km per hour, and on that occasion he had seen a woman flying through the streets of Split. Inland, the Siberian cold makes the Croatian valleys a continuation of the steppe. When we go through Gospić we will be lucky to see the mercury above zero, but Danka told us that a few winters ago, in the same place, the temperature reached 29 degrees below zero in the same season.