Lately, wherever we go, everyone tells us
that this weather is not normal, whether it´s the sweltering heat (southern
France), torrential rains (Switzerland) or the summer cold (Germany). Our days are dominated by the wettest
summer in recent times, it may be something due to climate change. During phases of optimism we feel
fortunate to live this sudden European monsoon, which does not allow the
surrounding nature to yellow even it wants to. The sight of green hills is everywhere in
Central Europe, even now that it is time to gather the wheat. However, optimism has its limits: hail,
soaked sleeping bags, windstorms, slugs smashed inside our shoes and
overflowing rivers are not so much fun when you suffer them in person.
After resting a few days with the Tvrznik
family we return to the road with the idea of wandering around the border
between Poland and the Czech Republic, visiting places with promising names
like Cesky Raj (which means Bohemian Paradise), Krknose, Krzeszów or Walbrzych
(if anyone is wondering, to write this paragraph I had to look at my notes and
looked again to write everything as close to reality). But for now, we have to cross fields
through the valley of the Elbe, which brings to mind the landscape of Guadarrama,
except for the beech forests that we see from a distance. Probably the fatigue caused by bad weather
is to blame for not appreciating what surrounds us, and the Cesky Raj has more Cesky than Raj ... From the bike we don`t get to
see any of the famous rock formations that we suppose surround us but are unmarked and we continue on to Poland with
the hope that the change of country bring us something new. The last camp in the Czech Republic does
not leave us with a good taste in our mouths: we are going up the river Jizera,
but it`s too steep to pitch our tent. Since we got ticks all over our legs after
camping in a pasture, we are getting more particular about choosing places to
rest. Finally time is upon us, we have no choice
but to take a logging path and sleep on a path that doesn`t seem to be too
used. At six o'clock, motorbikes, cars and
chainsaws have surrounded us and we have to raise camp at full speed. We have barely advanced 200 meters down
the road on our left when we discover a path leading down to the river to a
more or less big, flat and quiet place. Since we could not use it for camping, we
make breakfast, promising always go a little further when we have found a bad
place to sleep.
On the other side of the mountain, we
leave behind the resort town of Harrachov, and discover another world. First, the sun shines, for some hours a
day we even take off our jackets. And although we knew that Poles are
especially cheerful and talkative people, we did not expect everyone to speak
with us. The only problem is they do in their
language, and English here works just like Chinese. So we decide to answer in Spanish to any
Polish comment. The most amazing part is that we seem to
understand eachother. During the time we wait for a hail storm
to pass at a covered table in a road in a forest, two cars stop to talk to us. The first asks something like
"chezcheschechvejahcheyecheche" to which Gabi answers "wait, I
have a map," and so they understand each other, the man sees where he is
and maybe take the right direction. The second man who stops makes his son get
out of the car, in the middle of the big storm to be an interpreter in basic
but effective English so as to satisfy their curiosity. Poland is an interesting country, cheap,
delicious and hearty food, where you can find yourself in the most absurd
situations. When there`s a Pole present through, as we
learnt with the family that drove us around in Switzerland by van, it is highly
likely that events take alternative courses. In the Czech Republic we watched a
championship of sheepdogs. The next day a chubby pig is in charge of
shepherding sheep in Poland to cross the road and take them to the fold. We also do our part: Unlike the Czech
Republic, Poland is not exactly an ideal place totravel by bicycle. The roads do not have shoulders; drivers seem unaware of how wide their
vehicle is, or maybe they know it too well; bike paths are more inscrutable than God
... and with this background we decide to trust the road map and follow what
appears to be a forest track. And forest there is, but tracks as someone
would understand as a suitable way to travel with a wheeled vehicle, I do not
see it anywhere. Of course, both sides of the road are
filled with blackberry and raspberry laden scrubs at their best, the sweetest
"Berris" we have ever tried in our lives. We walk a mile, we contemplate the
panorama of mud and stones on a steep slope. We can still go back, take the road that
leads to a place called Kolonia Gai, but poor decisions are generating
anecdotes, and we have come here to live adventures. So throughout the next morning, we take
about five hours to cover 10 km, again caught by the spell of the berries more
than the stony road. When we're getting to the top and a man
walking overtakes us, and we realize that this is not the best idea. The good thing is now we just have to go downhill. And surely we would have done it faster if
we had not gotten lost.
During these three days in Poland we have
recovered a little bit of our sense of humor that we lost somewhere in the
Czech Republic. Perhaps we had left it,(along with Gabi`s
glasses) at that bus stop next to a puddle, that a truck was responsible for
emptying upon us when he passed. We
are going to Sumperk , where Radomir is awaiting us with the
promise to do something different: see a hockey tournament. A little tired of cycling, the prospect of
doing something different is extraordinary motivation. The cold shower comes when, just 10 km
from Sumperk we have the Czech version of "route barrée": our road is
closed because they have organized a rally. Gabi looks at the map and announces that it`s
not downhill, but uphill, as the detour continues for kilometers uphill. We are very disappointed, and to make
worse, our cooked macaroni falls to the grass. As if that were not enough, a big gray
cloud covers the sun and is threatening a
storm. We eat, pick up, argue and begin to climb
the mountain. Half a kilometer later it is confirmed
that Gabi’s biggest talent is not reading grades on the map and we start the
descent on the road decorated by a man too enamored and with too much free
time, he had been painting hearts almost to Sumperk. We are going so fast we
leave the cloud and bad mood behind, and we still have two hours to spare to
see the city until Radomir get off work. Although he barely has time for us, he cannot
be beat as a host and we enjoyed the weekend learning about the sport star in
the Czech Republic. It gives us a travel game including
backgammon, chess, checkers and Parcheesi, and that will be another travel
companion in the future (closer than distant) when the cold and rain force us
to spend more time under cover that pedaling.
These last few weeks in the Czech Republic have left our spirits a bit unhappy. We need a break, and have the opportunity to spend ten days on a goat farm in Slovakia. Even Gabi seems to suffer on the bike, is tired and always pedaling behind me. This is what riding a bike with a flat tire for a couple of days and not knowing it will do to you. From atop the hill, while Gabi repairs the flat tire, we have time to contemplate the White Carpathian Mountains: Slovakia is before us with a great cover letter. But so far we had complained of bad weather, we have no idea of what awaits us in the Slovak lands ... After all, this is the wettest summer.
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